I noticed that there had been a lot of interest in restoring old anvils in the last couple of years. As you already know, an anvil is one of the crucial blacksmithing tools. Without it, there is no forging work, so this is why having a good-quality anvil is extremely important.
Unfortunately, they become susceptible to cracking and deforming over time, especially the edges. That is also true for even the hardest of anvil faces. Since repairing the anvil is not a direct and short answer, we decided to write this definitive guide for everyone who wants to turn some old anvil into a new-like one.
In this guide, we will cover all the important topics about this subject, including:
- Why Do You Want to Repair the Anvil
- Should You Even Repair the Anvil
- Figuring out the anvil material
- Helpful Welding Advice
- Minor Restoration Work
- Heavy Restoration Work
- Safety Equipment and Precautions
Why Do You Want to Repair the Anvil?
Knowing why you want to repair the anvil greatly determines how you should repair it or even should you in the first place. So, before you start, ask yourself one simple question; What do I intend to do with this anvil?
Usually, people use anvils for two primary reasons:
- As a collection or decoration item
- As a working, functional anvil
If you intend to use the anvil only as a collection or decoration item but nothing else, you may only need some grinding and basic welding, sometimes not even that. On the other hand, if you intend to use that anvil for blacksmithing work, make sure to do it right. It must be in decent condition to be usable as a working anvil.
So, if the anvil is severely worn and damaged, meaning it has a lot of cracks, chips and dents, repairing is a must to be usable as a working tool. The main parts where many smiths may be worried are the face and the anvil’s horn. The face is by far the most used part for general work. On the other hand, the horn is where most bending takes place.
Should You Even Repair the Anvil?
Repairing an anvil generally depends on the current condition and the purpose for which it is intended. If an anvil is in terrible condition, meaning it has a lot of cracks, dents, and chips, and it is intended to be a functional tool, it should be repaired. If the anvil is not severely damaged and has a flat face, start working and see how it goes. The decorative or collective anvil doesn’t necessarily require repair.
So, if you find some old anvil that might be interesting to collectors, depending on the condition, it may need some minor restoration work or not at all. Of course, if it is completely cracked, you may as well pass it on. The most important thing here is that the collection of decorative anvils should look visually appealing, not necessarily functional.
Since most people reading this article probably plan to use it as a working anvil, the repairing process should be much more carefully done. The welding is the tricky part. To put it mildly, the vast majority of people I see online have mediocre welding skills.
In most cases, welding is not really necessary. However, there are situations when the anvil requires a good amount of repair, including welding. The ideal example is the anvil with a missing piece of plate.
If you are unsure whether you can or cannot do it, you have two options. The first one is to find somebody who can repair it, or the second, buy a new one. But most heavy repairs usually cost a lot.
So, if you have to pay a couple of hundred bucks for repairing the anvil, consider buying a new one. The costs of the two are then typically very similar. Minor restoration work is usually okay in terms of price.
If you are a beginner blacksmith who cannot wait to start forging and you have an anvil with a flat face and minimally damaged edges, I would say that you are good to go. Don’t worry about the visual aspect. The crucial factor is that it gets the job done.
After some time, when you acquire some experience and get into some more delicate work, you can start thinking about resurfacing or completely restoring the anvil. Until then, keep it the way it is and continue sharpening your skills.
How to Repair an Anvil
Congratulations, you made it to the most important part of the guide, where we explain the exact process of repairing the anvil.
What You Will Need
Depending on the level of damage, you may need various tools. Generally, this is the list of the equipment required for repairing the anvil:
- Propane torch
- Temperature indicating stick
- Angle grinder
- Flap disc
- Sanding disc
- Welder
- Welding gloves
Please note that not all tools are needed in every repair. For example, sometimes the repair doesn’t require welding so you won’t need a welder.
Visual Inspection And Figuring Out What It Is Made of
The first step to repairing any anvil is to inspect it and see what it is made of. How does the anvil look? Is it chipped? If it is, how much? Does it have a sway? Are there any parts broken off? In what condition are the edges?
These are some of the questions you have to answer before taking action. Don’t rush into welding if it isn’t necessary. Equally, don’t resurface the face if it isn’t required. Always think twice before starting. A basic forging for several hours can cause damage to the anvil. Now, try to figure out what it is made of.
Anvils are usually made of a few materials, including:
- Wrought Iron
- Cast Iron
- Cast Steel
Wrought Iron
An anvil made of wrought iron is composed primarily of elemental iron found in nature. Besides iron, tiny amounts of aluminum oxides, silicon, and phosphorus are found. Wrought iron is made by heating the iron multiple times and using the hammer to shape it to the desired result.
The more wrought iron is worked, the stronger it becomes. It is known for its high fatigue resistance. Therefore, it makes it is one of the best choices for an anvil. However, it is susceptible to rust. Consider coating it to increase the corrosion resistance. Usually, you will find the high-carbon steel plate welded on top of the anvil body.
Known makers of wrought iron anvils include Peter Wright, Mousehole Forge, Henry Wright, Isaac Nash, and others. Almost all of them have some identifying features. The most obvious one is the handling holes at the waist and under the base of the anvil. Also, they often have stamped maker marks.
Cast Iron
We usually refer to grey iron when we are talking about cast iron. It contains carbon, manganese, silicon, sulfur, and phosphorus. Therefore it is not a pure element found in nature. Cast iron is formed by melting pig iron and fusing it with other alloys. After that, it is poured into molds that are cooled down and solidified afterward.
Cast iron is usually weak, brittle, cheap, and obviously, an awful material to make the anvil from. These anvils will dent and chip pretty easily. Also, you can spot them in the wrong proportions. The horn is likely flat, very short, or stubby.
Cast iron anvils are usually no heavier than 50 pounds. Unless it has a welded steel plate on top of the anvil, cast iron is considered the worst material for making the anvil.
Anvils made of cast iron with welded steel on top of it are considered much higher-quality anvils. Star, Badger, Fisher, and Vulcan are some of the names making these types of anvils. However, there is a variation of quality even between them. Vulcan anvils are typically considered as a lower-quality with thing faceplates. On the other hand, Fisher has very hard faceplates and is prone to chipping.
Cast Steel
Steel is a ferrous alloy that consists mainly of carbon and iron. At the same time, many people think that steel is a metal that isn’t necessarily true. However, it is technically classified as an artificial alloy. Namely, all types of steel contain iron, but they can also contain carbon which primarily differentiates steel from iron. Steel is also stronger and harder than iron.
Cast steel anvils are generally much better in comparison with cast iron. Sometimes they can be hard to identify, but they usually don’t have handling holes. Since it is cast, it is highly likely to contain raised lettering on the side. Although they are less likely to sway, it can still happen. Due to its hardness, many cast steel anvils have chipped edges.
Minor Repairment Work
Minor repairment work typically includes:
- Cleaning the anvil’s face
- Rounding the edges
Cleaning the face of the anvil is one of the very common repair works. It is typically done to remove rust from the surface and make it look visually appealing. In that case, take a wire brush and clean the surface. To make things even easier, soak your anvil in some plastic tube filled with vinegar and let it soak before brushing.
Be extremely careful when using a grinder or sandpaper. Messing up the hardened steel plate on top of the anvil can be very dangerous. Since that is the part that provides longevity of the anvil, make sure you know what you are doing. In case you don’t, give it to someone else.
That is especially true for wrought iron anvils with a hardened plate on top. Namely, that high-carbon steel plate is usually thick, somewhere around 1 inch, which is not very thick. If you grind too much material, you can completely ruin the anvil.
If you do that on a cast iron anvil with a steel face, that’s it. You can also throw it away, especially if the face is separated from the body.
Also, don’t worry if the face is not perfectly flat in most cases. That doesn’t present a problem, especially if you are a beginner. Sway is the name for when an anvil’s face becomes concave through use. That is especially true for wrought iron anvils.
However, sway in an anvil often doesn’t represent a problem. Some people prefer it.
You may find some anvils with sharp edges. Rounding the edges is another thing many blacksmiths do, primarily to prevent cutting their material, among other reasons. The round corners are ideal for drawing out a bar. If you try to draw out the bar on the sharp edges, the chances are that you will create a series of stairsteps on that bar.
Contrarily, round edges allow a smith for much more secure work without creating chips. All you need to do is grind those sharp edges with an angle grinder. Now, the only question remaining is how much of a radius should you grind? Well, check the table below and find what will be most suitable for you.
| Weight | Heavy work | Sides | Light |
| Up to 100 lb (45kg) | 3/16 inch (5mm) | 1/8 inch (3mm) | 1/16 inch (1.5mm) |
| Up to 200 lb (90kg) | 1/4 inch (6.4mm) | 5/32 inch (4mm) | 1/8 inch ” (3mm) |
| Up to 350 lb (160kg) | 9/32 inch (7mm) | 5/32 inch (4mm) | 1/8 inch (3mm) |
| More than 350 lb (160kg) | 5/16 inch (8mm) | 3/16 inch (5mm) | 5/32 inch (4mm) |
Heavy Repairment Work
In this category of repairs are included various levels of anvil cracking. The best way to understand two extremes is to watch this video, and then we will continue.
Okay, with that out the way, let’s find out how to fix those cracks.
- The first thing you should do before doing any welding is to preheat your anvil somewhere between 350-400 degrees. After that, check with a Tempil Stick to check the temperature. A propane torch is usually used for this purpose. Note that the heel area of the anvil will heat much faster than the middle of the face.
- Next, carefully sand it and grind down those cracks a bit. If you remove a lot of material, you can completely destroy the anvil, especially if has the steel plate welded on top. If the crack is larger than 8 cm, chances are there is nothing much you can’t do any more to repair it.
- When welding, make sure to know what you are doing. Also, use a good build-up rod for this purpose. Chances are that if you put many layers of hard surface it will fly off during use.
- Let it slowly cool and grind the rest of the material.
Don’t Forget About Safety
During the anvil repairment, we recommend:
- Wearing safety glasses
- Wearing ear protection
- Wearing a welding mask when welding
- Wearing a respirator mask when grinding
There are many cases where blacksmiths suffer serious injury and loss of sight. Don’t be one of them. If you have the safety gear, Wear It!
